Thursday, August 22nd, 2013 at 11:11 pm
Your gardens might be approaching the harvest time this month and zucchini, cucumbers, summer squash, beans and tomatoes must be quickly approaching ripeness. Raspberries are plentiful, corn is tasseling, and annual flowers are also in abundance this time of the year.
Now is the time to renovate tired strawberry beds. Cut back foliage to about one-half-inch above the crowns. Thin rows, leaving only healthy, young, vigorous plants. Weed, then fertilize with 5 pounds of 10-10-10 per 100 feet of row, or an organic alternative. Water well and mulch with pine needles, straw mulch, wood shavings, or herbicide-free grass clippings.
Your garden container plants also require equal attention. Remove spent blossoms and sickly leaves. Cut back scraggly petunias, lobelia, alyssum and coleus. Strong new growth will be encouraged. Replace any plants that are doing poorly. Read the rest of this entry
Wednesday, April 3rd, 2013 at 12:41 pm
Gardens often harbor many weeds. The key to taming weeds is effective week after week control techniques. By dealing with the problem weekly, particularly as your garden becomes established, weeds will be less of a problem. This is partly because weeds have not been allowed to develop and because the cultivated plants get larger and more robust.
There are several strategies you can use to minimize this nuisance.
- Weed a little bit at a time, but often. This way weeds won’t get the upper hand and you won’t spend hours at a time pulling them.
- Pull weeds when they’re small—not only are they easier to remove, they disturb less soil. When you disturb soil in a bed, buried weed seeds may come to the surface and germinate. Read the rest of this entry
Sunday, March 17th, 2013 at 11:47 am
Spring gardening is never complete without vegetable gardening. It would be a good practice to plant a few vegetables now with a little precaution that you also need to protect young seedlings from just in case frost or light freeze during the early spring time.
This is also the best time to start preparing your garden and explore if you can avoid tilling this year. You also need to be careful of the garden weeds and ways to control it as this would otherwise cause much harm to vegetables. Do not try over-applying the harsh chemicals.
No-till gardening involves seeding or planting directly into the soil, using some type of mulch cover. When tilling a garden, it turns up not only the soil, but also the “seed bank”, those weed seeds that are under the ground and just waiting for a bit of sun, oxygen and a little water to begin growing. If you use no-till, these seeds remain undisturbed for the most part, so the possibility of a less weedy garden is much better. Read the rest of this entry
Monday, November 28th, 2011 at 9:23 pm
The days are shorter than nights and the leaves are flying in the wind. Color of the prairie is brown these days.This is the time of investment of good efforts in your garden. It is the time to protect your landscape from the ravages of winter.
It is time to drag out the hoses and water your landscape. Whether you are watering lawns, garden beds or woody plants, apply enough water to soak in 8 to 12 inches. Water when the daytime temperature is above 40 degrees, there is no snow cover and the ground is not frozen. Irrigate early in the day to allow moisture to soak in before nightfall. Remember to unhook and drain the hose at the end of the day.
This is the best time to check the level of mulch around woody and herbaceous plants and to wrap the trunks of newly planted trees. It will help you protect plant tissues from the freeze-thaw cycles that damage both roots and stems. Depending on the size and type of mulch, go for 2-4 inches of mulching.Remember to keep mulch an inch from woody plant trunks to discourage animals from feeding on the bark. Plastic or cardboard wrap etc. Read the rest of this entry
Saturday, November 19th, 2011 at 9:49 pm
If you have planted garlic in this fall season in your vegetable garden and your area is facing extremes of hot and cold weather conditions then moderating soil temperature is quite helpful. For Garlic plants repeated freezing and thawing is not good. Frost heaves can tear the young roots from the cloves.
Frost heave is the result of pressure created from a combination of freezing temperatures and soil defrosting. The fluctuating freezing and thawing conditions heave, or lift, the soil, which is often characterized by deep cracking of the soil.
In extreme weather conditions leading to freezing ensure that your garlic plants are not uprooted from the ground otherwise this would become a major cause of worry for you. Read the rest of this entry
Thursday, November 17th, 2011 at 10:59 pm
Rhododendrons are surface-rooting plants. In case you intend to weed around them, don’t go digging around with a hoe or a fork or you might damage the feeding roots. Don’t get obsessive about tidying up fallen leaves – they provide the perfect mulch for the rhododendron and add nutrients to the soil.
Too warm and/or too dry and your rhododendron will need extra mulch like pea straw to retain moisture. Dampen the soil first and then mulch.If you are going to mulch, don’t just chuck on any old thing. Mushroom compost, for example, is alkaline and rhodos like acid soil, so that’s out. Don’t use anything that depletes the soil of nitrogen as it decomposes. Keep the plant stem clear or collar rot might result. Read the rest of this entry