Wednesday, April 24th, 2013 at 12:13 pm
Getting rid of voles is a challenge. The best strategy for gardeners is to learn to live with voles, minimizing their damage. The most vital tool for controlling voles is good information. You must know your enemy well.
Voles are pretty interesting little critters. They’re closely related to house mice and about the same size, but with shorter tails and different habits. Voles live outdoors, moving around through a system of tunnels that keeps them out of sight most of the time. They live only about a year, on average, but in that time they stay busy having lots of babies, sometimes several litters per year. They don’t hibernate in the winter; they keep right on eating their vegetarian diet of leaves and seeds throughout the year. Read the rest of this entry
Tuesday, April 9th, 2013 at 12:06 pm
Stop mildew from spreading on roses by spraying weekly with diluted skim milk (1 part skim milk mixed with 9 parts water) or with products containing triforine or chlorothalonil fungicide. Although no fungicide will remove mildew that is already on the leaves and buds, these sprays prevent mildew from starting on new growth. That way your roses can outgrow the effects of mildew. It also helps to spray rose foliage with plain water early in the morning, but never after mid-morning or in the evening.
To prevent or stop clearwing borers from damaging your peaches or nectarines, spray malathion on the trunks and branches now. New borer larvae hatch this month and must be stopped as they crawl from the ground to the trunk and branches, before they get inside the bark. Borers eat away at the growing and nutrient-carrying tissues inside. Neglecting this problem results in a dead tree – or in a tree so weak that it can hardly produce any fruit. Spraying in mid-May helps to keep peaches, nectarines and other stone fruits safe from borers. Read the rest of this entry
Monday, April 8th, 2013 at 11:52 am
Many plant diseases flourish under wet conditions with favorable air temperatures, home gardeners need to take heed and be prepared to defend susceptible vegetation in their landscapes.
Three factors must exist for plant disease development: 1. a pathogen (disease causing agent), 2. a susceptible host plant, and 3. an environment that favors disease.
Viruses and mycoplasmas are microscopic disease causing agents most often spread by insects flying or hopping from one plant to another but also by people handling infected plant parts or infected cuttings. Few chemical controls are available for viruses. Plants with symptoms of viral infection should be uprooted and discarded. Seeds and cuttings from infected plants carry the viral infection, too. Antibiotics can be used to control a few mycoplasma diseases and to slow down the development of bacterial infections. Read the rest of this entry
Friday, March 29th, 2013 at 12:49 pm
As the summer season progresses in you need to shift your houseplants indoors from the outside. Not doing this could infect your houseplants with flying insects or aphids and other small pests.
Aphids are tiny little sapsuckers live and feed in groups on the stems of plants. They can be different colors including white, green, brown or even orange. To treat aphids indoors, add a teaspoon of dishwashing soap to a gallon of water and wash the whole plant with the solution. You can help the process along by rubbing the stems with your fingers or a cotton ball. Let it set for a few minutes, then rinse well.
Mites are very small insects and can form a thin web over the plant. Affected plants’ leaves may appear spotted and, if there are flowers, they may start to look unhealthy. Try blasting off the mites with water. You can do this by setting the plant in the sink and using the sprayer. You can also use the same method we talked about for aphids. Read the rest of this entry
Sunday, January 27th, 2013 at 12:52 pm
Gardeners should not worry about gardening while there is cold and gloomy outside. As a matter of fact gardening never ends. There are always gardening tasks to do in the outdoor.
It is also the best time to get rid of garden pest – thrips. Gardeners who grow roses are normally familiar with this insect or at least the damage they do.
Thrips are very small insects that feed on many types of plant material; buds, flowers, leaves and fruits. These tiny garden pests have mandibles that they use to slash open the plant material and suck out sap. This feeding process can also spread diseases from one plant to another. Read the rest of this entry
Thursday, April 12th, 2012 at 2:48 pm
It would be real tough task to spray entire trees. Once affected the large trees are likely to recover quickly on their own. On the other hand, you should focus treating newly planted, young or fruit trees to avoid yield losses.
One very effective treatment is to wrap trunks with sticky band early in the year, to trap the crawling adult females and the adult male visitors.
For trunk spray you should use a 2% to 3% dormant horticultural oil as it is quite effective on the eggs. But you must be cautious while spraying on the trees that are not dormant (active) as it may cause injury. Always read the label for application rates and times. Read the rest of this entry
Wednesday, April 11th, 2012 at 3:48 pm
Some of the insects are a happy site in your garden like the ladybug beetles. It is a welcome sign when you spot these insects in your garden. Ladybug Beetles are voracious eaters of aphids and are there to keep the population under control. They are there to help.
On the contrary many other insects are not good for your garden and you must worry if you spot them. For instance , the pesky inchworms that could even invade residential landscapes.
There is more than one type of inchworm inching around right now. There are spring cankerworms, oak cankerworms and Linden loopers. They are all about the same size — about an inch or so long — but they vary in color.
Inchworms generally arrive in hordes for three to five years in a row. They may also take a break and be present in lower numbers for the next couple of years. Read the rest of this entry