Monday, August 26th, 2013 at 11:25 am
If your lawn is heavily infested with nutgrass then it must be a cause of worry for you. It is tough to get rid of it. Nutgrass is an extremely difficult weed to eradicate.
Nutgrass is perennial weedy sedge in the genus Cyperus that is often mistaken for a grass. Also called nutsedge, it is a nuisance in turfgrass when its shiny leaves and fast growth rate disrupts the otherwise uniform texture of a lawn. The invasive nature of nutsedge may cause it to destroy the appearance of a flower bed.
Nutsedge may spread by seed or by underground stems called rhizomes. Each plant is attached to a tuberous bulb-like structure often called a nut or nutlet.
Under optimal conditions, a tuber can give rise to as many as 7,000 new nutlets annually. Somewhat like a potato, each nut has five or more “eyes,” with each eye having the ability to produce a new shoot. Read the rest of this entry
Wednesday, July 3rd, 2013 at 9:18 pm
During the month of July gardeners must be cautious of development of mold and fungal diseases in their gardens.
It is extremely important in gardening to monitor for mold and fungal diseases. If your flower garden having annuals and early blooming perennials has started appearing shaggy then it would be better to trim these plants back to improve appearance and promote more bushy growth. Trimming plants will further facilitate increased air circulation around adjacent and later-blooming plants. This in turn will reduce drastically the conducive growth for mold, mildew and fungus.
The vegetable gardeners should preferably use straw as a mulch to retain soil moisture and reduce fluctuations in soil temperatures. Straw will also serve as a potential barrier between fruits and vegetables and the damp soil. Do not ignore the factor of ensuring good air circulation which is needed to reduce probability of occurrence of mold and fungal diseases in the vegetable garden. Read the rest of this entry
Thursday, April 25th, 2013 at 12:05 pm
As the grass greens up the lawn owners who want an eco-friendly yard should focus more on mowing – and less on fertilizing.
“The first step to minimize the environmental impact of your home lawn is to raise the mower’s blade to a height of 3 to 4 inches – usually the highest setting on your mower – and leave the grass clippings on the lawn,” says Marty Petrovic, a turf specialist in the Department of Horticulture at Cornell University.
Taller grass competes better with weeds, and sinks roots deeper into the soil to better withstand mid-summer heat and drought, explains Petrovic. The result: A thicker turf with fewer weeds and less watering. He also suggests keeping your mower’s blades sharp for a clean cut that reduces stress on the grass. Read the rest of this entry
Wednesday, March 27th, 2013 at 1:15 pm
There are some extremely important tasks that need to be addressed this gardening season.Start some flowers and other garden plants from seeds weeks before it’s warm enough to transplant them outside. Plants started from seed generally cost far less than you end up paying at the garden store. The timing of planting is really crucial and you must determine when to start plants indoors . Seed packets of those plants which are commonly started indoors usually contain special instructions for when and how to do it.
You can repurpose many would-be throwaway items — including cardboard boxes, toilet paper tubes, newspaper, egg cartons and even half-eggshells — to serve as miniature, biodegradable seedling pots. Some of the most common plants started from seeds indoors include tomatoes, peppers, melons, squash, eggplant and a wide variety of flowers and herbs. If you’re short on sunny window space consider building a simple cold frame in your yard as a place to start seeds up to six weeks before planting season. You can find designs online of how to build cold frames out of inexpensive materials like bales of hay, scrap lumber, plastic sheeting and old windows. Read the rest of this entry
Sunday, March 10th, 2013 at 6:49 pm
Pre-emergent herbicides have a tendency to destroy newly germinated weed seeds by attacking the tender shoots and roots before they have an opportunity to develop.
Pre-emergent does not stop seed germination actually. However, it may pose as a potential barrier on the ground. If the seeds do not germinate, they may remain temporarily dormant in the soil and escape the effectiveness of the pre-emergent only to reveal themselves later.
Many of the weeds that plague your lawn throughout the summer germinate in late fall and early spring as soil temperatures rise above 50 degrees. Read the rest of this entry
Sunday, February 3rd, 2013 at 11:49 am
Garden Moss quite often starts developing when soil is compacted, wet or in too much shade. Growth of garden moss is technically attributed to the imbalance in the soil pH value.
It becomes extremely important for a gardener to determine as what are the conditions that are causing the problem and then it would be best to take the next step toward eliminating the garden moss.
Have your soil tested again to see if the nutrient content and pH level have changed since your last test three years ago. If the soil is deficient in nutrient content or needs lime, the test report will indicate how much fertilizer and lime to apply and when to apply it.
Moss growth usually starts in early winter and reaches its peak in early spring. This growth is caused by excessive rainfall. Moss growth normally declines in summer as conditions become drier and the grass growth increases. In shady areas, the moss may continue to grow through the summer. Read the rest of this entry
Tuesday, November 13th, 2012 at 4:15 pm
Autumn months are perfect for gathering and saving seeds from desirable landscape plants. It is a good idea to get rid of weed seeds. Leaves are a gardener’s golden opportunity to enrich soil. Do not burn or bag autumn leaves.
Gardeners generally know that leaving dead plant stalks standing in garden beds is never good. Tiny bacterial and fungal spores on infected plant parts spread diseases to plants of the same type next year. It is better to collect then burn or bag and remove from the area diseased leaves, stems, dried fruit, etc. Insects, slugs and other garden pests take shelter in plant remains and woody trash.
Leaves fall to the earth, decompose and become humus. Similarly grasses grow up, then die back laying flat on the ground, then decompose and add organic material to the upper layers of the soil. Read the rest of this entry